April 11th 2014

 

I like reasonable isolation, but if I'm honest I'm not sure I could live on Orkney. This sounds whingey but it's not, and it is not against Orkney. I think its islands. I'm just not an island person. I love going to them but after a day or so start to become slightly mad and crave something different after having driven down the same road for the sixth time. That said I love Orcadians, I've rarely come across a more biddable and friendly set of people, without exception. Pop into a local shop for a pint of milk and 3 hours later you're still in there gossiping. The Hotel I am staying at is run by Ivy and Aln who can both trace their ancestry back to Viking times. True Orcadians and I'm very happy here. It is however quite an eccentric hotel, and for that I love it even more. For example to get into the restaurant one has to either go through the public bar, and by through I mean walk behind the bar, or for the less intimidating option, exit the hotel and walk all the way round to the back of the hotel entering via the carpark. I love this sort of thing, there is far far too much Corporate Blandness in hotels these days. Food good, bedroom excellent and such a comfy bed. Best of all was the chat.

 

The top photo is an Orkney Chair made by Aln. Traditional Orkney chairs were made from drift wood and straw for the backs, curved round to keep the draft out. Apparently the longer you sat in the chair the more comfortable it became as the straw molded to your body. The second image is one of Aln's shields and axes from his performance of the Yaarl, a smaller form of Up Helly Aa, also in Shetland. Last night Aln and I chatted about Orkney when he was having a break from his public bar duties to shoot some insulin before scrambled egg on toast. A detail not relevant but I like minor details. It's quite heavy that axe and Aln told me the chainmail can weigh 2 stones. What staggered me is that every year a new costume has to be made and bought by each individual in the Yaarl, in the region of £750. Those taking part in Up Helly Aa can pay over £1500 a year. The chair and shield are here as an example of my thoughts on island life, especially this far north. It's dark for 3 months of the year and so Aln makes chairs or takes part in Festivals. They all do, as a celebration that sunlight is returning, because in reality they're struggling with the lack of daylight. Really the modern man on Orkney, despite all the trappings of modern living, is no different to the pre Neolithic man on Scara Brae below. Seasons, day-length and the never ending wind define his character and his social life.